After the first day of driving for 11 hours to Yajiang (about 2 hours West of Kangding) we departed on thi second day from the small Inn around 9:00 AM and drove for about 5 hours to the end of the road. We arrived in the last village at the end of the road of Yulongxi. This village is nothing more than approximately 5 authentic Tibetian houses spread about in a valley, surrounded by beautiful peaks. The height of this village is 4,000 meters [13,120 feet]. Matt and Apple, from previous treks had good contacts and relationships with the locals in this village. They knew exactly what Tibetian family would share their house with us, and we drove the Beijing jeep up the side of a hillside [no roads left] to the front door of your typical stone-built house, with decorative wood framed windows [as is so typical in this whole region].

We were welcomed by the local family. We stock-piled our gear out of the jeep and into the house. This late afternoon, we relaxed and sat around the wood stove cooking and eating. We did some short 20 minute hikes up the back mountain-side- where if you just climb for even 10 minutes you gain accessorial view to Shan Gongga and the entire range. From the valley you cannot see the Gonnga range, but by just climbing for 10 minutes above the village- you see some of the best views of the whole trip.

Late afternoon- it happened! I had big desire to go take nap in sleeping bag, and then it kept getting worse. A pounding headache set in! I spent the whole late afternoon and all night cuddled in my sleeping bag, no energy to get up, but no ability to sleep with pounding headache. Advils did nothing to conquer headache. I had run 55 miles the week before [almost 100 km], I was in excellent shape with a 48 pulse, better than 99% of all other people. I thought beforehand, that this altitude sickness could never happen to me, I am in great shape with great oxygen exhange efficiency. But it happened! Note: all others in our group were Chinese ancestry except Matt Ryan, and none felt any implications of the altitude.

The next morning, I gathered myself out of my sleeping bag. The house had no heat, and you can always see your breath in the air. Not so much fun getting out of sleeping bag in morning. I found open window and stood by open window for 20 minutes, I felt a bit better and my headache subsided. All night I was thinking that I would not be able to hike the next day given the way I felt (was sick)... but now I knew I could at least attempt. However, my energy levels were low.

We set out about 10:00 AM after much delays awaiting horses to come down from upper grazelands. Yes- the horses carry your backpacks, and all the food and cooking gear for the week in the mountains. This was the first time in my life whereby I was not responsible for humping my own backpack- only a light day pack. It turned out to be big benefit- at first I felt like "sissy trekker" and was not very prideful- not carrying my own backpack, but this is common in this area. We had two local sherpas in a group- and four horses. The Tibetian sherpa's job was to push the horses along the trail, maintain the horses, set up campsites, pack up camp gear in morning. Our sherpa's were a 20 year old women from Yulongxi and about a 28 year old man [un-related]. Note: on the trails we see many Tibetian women, and they are in great shape, both trekking faster than all tourists and humping gear. Also and amazing observation is that these sherpas wore ordinary street clothes that they had scavenged somewhere along their path of life- ordinary running sneakers, nylon wind breaker in lieu of fleece or down jacket, the women were wearing cotton sweaters and long cotton dress' while trekking. They dont even know the difference, to them it is normal, even after a day in rain, hail, and snow- where I had puddles in my gortex hiking boots, and was soaked through my rain jacket and fleece... they had to have been 3X worse, and with no effect on their determination, their psychology. Apple told me "they dont like our style hiking boots, they think they are too heavy".

So, right outside the house, was the Yulongxi Pass, up and over to the Moxi valley at the foot of Shan Gongga. But, up and over is from 4000 meters to 4600 meters. At the foot of this climb, in the first 10 minutes on very gradual slopes... I was dead! Normally- back in the States, or in Europe on similar grade I could jog up, pushing myself for personal best times... but today I was dead. I was at about 25% energy factor, from this altitude sickness and from having suffered all of the previous night. It was going to be a long 3 hours up. At the end, the last 500 meters, I was taking 6" foot steps, and 5-6 heavy breaths between steps... I was dead and only at 4600 meters. At the peak the views were fabulous and expansive. Up and over, and about half way down we set camp in an existing stone hut.

Same story on this afternoon as yesterday afternoon- I headed for my sleeping bag... no energy, not feeling good, and pounding headache. I was awaken, and forced to eat dinner... I knew I had to eat for energy, but it took everything I had just to sit up, and take 15 bites of rice. I was pushing the limits just to eat.

Next Day to Shan Gongga, Click Here

Other Web Pages:
Gonnga- Main Page
See Detailed Gongga Shan itinerary
Gonnga-Public Images & Maps
Detail Reference of Matt Ryan and Apple [DragonExpeditions]
Pay for Guide, is it worth it?

References, Contacts and Recommendations:

Both organizations, and all persons Matt, Apple, and Roland we trust, had great experience with, and hope to trek again in 2008 with. For a personal reference contact me [Tom Patton] gtpatton@gmail.com or business mobile number on East Coast of USA is 401-741-9548

Dragon Expeditions
A3-201 Roma Plaza
Gaoshengqiao Donglu
Chengdu, 610041 China

matt@dragonexpeditions.com
Matt Ryan- mobile number 86- 136 2803 0425
Dragon Expeditions Office Tel: 86- 028 8510 9200 [delete first zero if outside of China]
website under construction: www.dragonexpeditions.com

Western Sichuan Tours
www.wstourix.com
Rolan Zeidler
86- 28 6640 6003
mobile number 86 139800 35421